Mysore - A Food Paradise

Sangeeta Goel, 29th July 2016

Ask an Indian what makes his food delicious. The answer will be “masala”, the spices. The same spices that have changed the history of mankind. Don’t believe in that? Try to look for the journey of the humble pepper to get an insight into why Vasco Da Gama fought the rough ocean waters to find a new route to India.

Masala makes Indian food finger-lickingly yummy. That’s where we get the word “chaat” from, which literally means “to lick”. Now you know why Indian savoury snacks are called “chaat”. You would probably look like a thumb-sucking infant, licking the last of the Masala on your fingers :)

India has a variety of chaats – each region specialising in its own kind. If you Google for Indian chaats, it will tell you that the chaats of Delhi, Uttar Pradesh and Mumbai (mostly the northern parts of India) are the best. And I agree. Given that chaats originated in Uttar Pradesh, the best varieties are found in that region.

I'll be nice to you and let you in on a little secret. The southern parts of India are also well known for chaats - a variation of what is found in the North. Especially the Gobi Manchurian (a supposedly 'Chinese' dish made of cauliflower) of Bangalore, Churmuris of Mysore, and Masala Puris almost everywhere are known for their flavour and ‘no one can eat just one’ like quality.

An Indian Chaat always oozes flavour

However, there is one chaat that the entire nation (well almost) will vote for as being the most desirable - Paani Puri. If there was ever a Mr Popular Contest among chaats, Paani Puri would win hands down. Supposed to have originated in Varanasi, these are known as Puchka in West Bengal, Gol Gappa in Delhi and southwards from Mumbai, they are called Paani Puri. These are round hollow crisps (puri) stuffed with some boiled potatoes (seasoned with masala) and spiced-up water (paani). It is to be popped in one’s mouth, in one go, so that when the crisps filled with water breaks in the mouth, there is an outburst of flavour.

Because of the flavour and the spices added to the water, it is generally brownish or greenish in colour. However, a small town, Bangarpet in Karnataka, has invented a variation wherein the water remains clear, but extremely flavourful. Now, this variety of the Paani Puri can be found across Karnataka - especially in Mysore.

Mysore is well known for Chamundi Hills, Palaces, Ashtanga Yoga, decorated elephants during Dasara, Silk, Sandalwood, Perfumes and Incense sticks, Wood Inlay art and a lot more. Mysore boasts of not only its royal heritage but also an unparalleled royal cuisine. There are innumerable places to eat varieties of food in Mysore, each one better than the other.

But when it is about chaats, my recommendation is a humble non-descript eatery on Kalidasa Road - Shettru Mane Chaats (or Shettara Mane Chaats). I have taken many people to this place – mostly tourists from different countries. But recently when I took a few friends from Bangalore who were well acquainted with similar chaats available in Bangalore, I was surprised to find them ogling at the menu.

Shettru Mane Chaats in Mysore

What they found marvellous was that the person, Suresh, who runs this shop, experiments with the flavour of water that goes into the Paani Puri everyday. Quite amazingly, he has been meticulously documenting his masterpieces. Ask him and he will hand over a book containing the names of over 400 different varieties of the spiced-up water (paani) written against the date on which they were made.

The Board which changes everyday with the day's specials

Think of any fruit or vegetable, he probably has already used it for flavouring the water. Guava, Grape, Pomegranate, Banana, Mango, Sweet Pumpkin, Baby Corn – the list is endless. Each day there is a special on the menu – that day it was pomegranate flavoured water, the next time it was 'Kama Kasturi Leaves" (quite similar to Tulsi/ Basil). We not only had the water in the Puris (crisps) – but we also got some extra to drink it like juice.

Shettru Mane Bangarpet Pani Puri with Kama Kasturi Leaves pani and the traditional chilly pani

Ah, lest I forget! There is one more thing that you cannot leave this place without tasting – the delicious Dahi Puri. Generally these are round hollow crips filled with some potatoes, yoghurt and the king of all – masala. But at Shettru Mane Chaats, it is slightly different as with the rest of the items on the menu. The crisps are half-moon shaped and are specifically roasted by Suresh giving it a brilliant texture. He knows the perfect proportion of all the elements that goes into it while plating it, making it a brilliance in itself. No one can stop at one plate and that evening we definitely over ate.

Dahi Puri at Shettru Mane Chaats

Suresh is hard-working and is tech-savvy as well. He takes pictures of his creations everyday and uploads them on his Facebook Page "Shettaramane Chats". One second he is making the chaat, and the next second, he is whipping out his mobile phone and taking some very pictures of his very cool creations.

Suresh's picture of his special Pani

Oh, by the way, he has created a chaat known as "Cool Chaat" made of a base of fried bread crumbs and cold grape pulp (hence the name). A sure shot way to beat the Indian heat.

He even takes the trouble of researching online for the health benefits of some of the creations. Check this out.

Suresh jotting down the health benefits of Chia Seeds

So no matter where in the world you are – if you visit Mysore, do not miss Shettru Mane Chaats. You can thank us later. If you've been here, let us know what you love and if you haven't been here, let us know when we could go :)

About Sangeeta Goel

When words and Sangeeta come together you can be assured that there would be magic. In spite of being an efficient Chartered Accountant once upon a time dealing with numbers and law, words somehow found her. It’s then she realized how much she missed them. Then came the period of “will do anything else other than being a CA”. If there is anything that she is passionate about, it is stories. Travel comes bundled with stories. And she is living both of it.